05 Jun Carnival: Rio de Janeiro
Carnival: Rio de Janeiro
I have always wanted to visit Rio de Janeiro to experience Carnival. I decided to take the opportunity to visit Rio when the Carnival was happening. It is the biggest Carnival in the world with 2 million people a day on the streets. This is an account of my week long experience at the Rio Carnival.
Friday Night: The Carnival Begins
After checking into my hotel and getting organized I went to the lobby to meet other people from my tour group that were interested in looking for a bloco. Blocos are considered the people’s carnival celebrations. They are parties that take place throughout the streets, numbering in the hundreds. A Carnival Bloco is a street party some featuring Samaba bands, all featuring music, dancing and food. There are hundreds of Blocos throughout the neighbourhoods, all day, every day beginning about a week before the final day of Carnival. They are one of the most exciting parts of the Carnival celebrations with millions of people crowding the streets of Rio decked out in costumes as they parade through the streets. There is singing and dancing along with an atmosphere with such high energy and positivity that you can not help but enjoy yourself. This was my kick off to Carnival with music, signing along with fireworks exploding into the night. A few of us were keen to explore the area and we dressed up in our glitter, masks, feathers and sequins. People were everywhere, music was playing from personal speakers as food and drink carts donned the streets. I tried a caipirinha which is the National Cocktail of Brazil. The rain flowed through the night drowning car tires in the flooded streets. There were still some people braving the streets in search of the best bloco but after several hours of rainfall and wading through the flood we decided to head back to the hotel though not without a lot of effort.
Day 6: March 16, 2019
Morning: Portal Point Zodiac Cruise and Shore Landing
Saturday Night: In Search of Some Blocos
Today we toured the city and I finally got to see the Christ the Redeemer statue up close. Fog filled the sky creating zero visibility. I planned to revisit later in the week. I also got to experience Sugar Loaf Mountain as well as ride the cable car up for some eerie views of Rio. I understand this was not the most ideal day for a city tour but it was pre-booked and changing the date would require buying a new ticket. After the tour we went to check out the world-famous stairs Escadaria Selaron, a staircase covered in more than 2000 pieces of colourful tiles, mirrors and ceramics. The stairs are located between the bohemian neighbourhoods of Lapa and Santa Teresa. Upon returning to my hotel a much-needed siesta was in order.
Once I was awake and refreshed, I joined a few others to check out a Samba band. The Samba bands have locations throughout the city that are reserved at a certain time and day for them and have been the same since that band began participating in Carnival (some have had their spots for decades). The bands play, crowds gather as they drink and dance, it often ends with mass parading around with the band. Whether you plan where to go or just wander, you’ll be hitting these bands every few blocks. This is the people’s Carnival, the free street celebration where you can wear whatever, drink whatever, do whatever while the rules of the city temporarily cease to exist. Anyone can be a part of it, to us it was the epitome of Rio Carnival.
Sunday Sambadrome: The Famous Parade
Today began with a tour of a popular favela in Rio. A favela is an unregulated government neighbourhood. There are many surrounding the central city center of Rio as well as other cities throughout Brazil. They are mostly settlements of lower income families who have fled the country side looking for work in the cities. Most lack traditional government oversight, are over crowded and lack building codes. The experience was a very sad but eye opening one. I will talk more about favelas in a separate article.
Once returning to the hotel I decided to head down to the world-famous Ipanema Beach, for a bit before getting ready for the big night. After some splashing around while having fun in the sun, we returned to the hotel to prepare for Sambadrome Night – the true highlight of Rio Carnival!! The Carnival Parade at Sambadrome, unlike the blocos is an organized event. The most prestigious Samba Schools compete against each other in spectacular fashion with lavish costumes, intricate dancing, as well as infectious music. Bands are judged throughout the night by roving judges who school all their practiced routines, costumes and most importantly their ability to engage the audience.
Once we were all dressed, glammed and glittered in our colourful costumes, masks and sequins we headed to Sambadrome. We left around 7:30 in order to arrive around 8pm as seating fills up quickly in the grandstand. The parade began around 10 PM and we were settling in preparing to stay until the wee hours. You can bring outside food in the massive Sambadrone. The parade is in Portuguese but that is okay I was mesmorized by the colourful costumes.
The Samba “schools” that perform at the Sambadrome are from everywhere. They practice and prepare throughout the year for this spectacle celebrating the end of Carnival.
The Sambodrome is a 13-block long stadium, the Samba Schools parade through the middle on stunning floats with men and women in incredibly elaborate costumes dancing atop. The musicians, also in Broadway-level costume, parade in front as hundreds more dance around the moving float. The parade happens each night of Carnival, and usually doesn’t end until 5 AM or so. Each night, different schools perform. This event requires that buy tickets in advance, it is usually a sell out!. As the night went on the schools got better. We stayed until 4am and I felt that was enough time to get the full impact of an experience that I have been longing to attend.
NOTE: It is wise to bring a poncho as you will likely be there for 8+ hours and it does tend to rain. It poured on us and I forgot my poncho.
Monday: The Morning After Sambadrome
Waking up a little later than usual I still had energy. Most likely it was channeling the energy from the previous night. I wasn’t going to sleep the day away; I made some calls to find out who was awake and able to go to the beach. A couple of us were game to visit Copacabana, the other world-famous beach in Rio. Copacabana Beach has a long history which is set between two forts. Today it is most noted as the place to spend New Year’s Eve, although it is a beautifully wide beach for everyday enjoyment.
The beach was the right way to spend the afternoon. When we returned others were eager to set out again in search of blocos. Basically, Rio Carnival can be divided into two parts: part one in Sambodrome and part two around the streets. I washed away the sand and reapplied some golden glitter adorning myself with a sequin and feather masked and a light romper that was necessary for the 37-degree temperature awaiting us. We headed to Lapa where the blocos did not disappoint us.
Tuesday: The party continues
Today I had the opportunity to revisit Christ the Redeemer and explore some other neighbourhoods. A few of the friends I had made during my trip to Rio went for a goodbye dinner before we went out for one last night to the blocos. We paraded with the samba band and danced the night away. After a couple of caipirinhas the potent National Cocktail, it was time to retire for the night. It truly had been an adventure of a lifetime. I knew I was sure going to miss the exotic summer party along tropical beaches that many people want to be at. Rio is such a welcoming city and I easily fell in love with its vibe as well as the beautiful attractions along with its pristine beaches. Reflecting on my Carnival experience I am so grateful to have had the opportunity to live out one of my dreams of dressing up and witnessing this world-famous spectacle. Many people ask me if I felt safe and wasn’t there a lot of pickpockets. The short answer is yes. I never felt unsafe during my time in Rio and I was fortunate to not experience any theft. In another article I will share some tips on how you can stay safe while enjoying the Carnival.
Wednesday
Depart
The passengers were divided into two separate groups. One group would be participating in a zodiac cruise and explore the waters, while the other group would land on shoreand explore the land.
The groups would alternate, allowing each to explore both activities before returning to the ship.
I was in the first group that would participate in a shore landing at Portal Point.
As we landed, we were greeted by a sleeping Crabeater seal.
Portal Point is a scenic landing where we had a chance to walk up the snow dome for a view over the bay speckled in icebergs.
We were able to enjoy the snow and the beautiful view of the bay.
Afternoon: Ciera Cove Zodiac Cruise
Our afternoon activity consisted of a zodiac cruise around Ciera Cove.
In the background, we could see an Argentinean base, but were unable to visit due to red and green lichen growing near the shore, making a landing impossible.
We spotted many Humpback Whales along the way that were feeding in the bay.
We also had the opportunity to explore several icebergs around Portal Point.
We drove by large glaciers , speckled with penguins, before spotting a Leopard seal 🦭.
Our zodiac was right in front of the Leopard seal, and I was hoping he wouldn’t take a bite out of our boat .
The seal had other plans as the circle of life played out in front of me for a second time.
The Leopard seal caught a penguin and thrashed its small body in and out of the water. The seal violently destroyed the penguin because he wanted to get rid of the blubber and eat the rest.
The penguin was inside out, and though it was painful and close to impossible for me to watch, I found it a little reassuring that this death was more sudden compared to the slow death inflicted by the petrel the other day.
Day 7: March 17th, 2019 (St. Patrick’s Day)
Day at Sea
We were on our way to the Antarctic Sound, the entrance to the Weddell Sea.
The gateway into the Weddell Sea was opening as the pack ice was clearing, compared to the beginning of the week when our entrance was impossible.
We were eager to explore the magnificent Weddell Sea, but as we approached the sound, the wind had picked up to 42 knots, making a zodiac excursion too dangerous.
We were unable to make our landing on Brown Bluff due to extreme winds and large pieces of ice along the shoreline.
Another attempted landing would be made tomorrow.
We watched the wild ocean and snow-capped mountains.
The strong wind during the morning had pushed the ice further east, which allowed us to travel further into the Weddell Sea than expected.
We sailed toward a massive tabular iceberg, which was more stable, allowing us to cruise around it.
With a shining sun reflecting on the ice, the different features and colours of the ice made for a magical sight.
Humpback whales surfaced around the ship, and we observed Antarctic Fur seals and Crabeater seals on ice floes.
It was St. Patrick’s Day, so many of us were gathered in the lounge drinking dyed green beer and perusing through the thousands of photos we had already snapped.
A call came over the speakers to announce there were killer whales in view!
Everyone abandoned their beer and grabbed their cameras to catch a sight of the Orcas.
At first the whales were widely spread and in a loose group, but as they moved closer together, our guides pointed out the males with the larger dorsal fins.
One of our guides believed there were roughly 80 Orcas.
They appeared to be coming together to socialize.
These were Type B or Pack Ice Orcas, as they are also called.
This was an amazing spectacle and made up for the missed excursion.
Day 8: March 18, 2019
Morning: Brown Bluff Shore Landing
With an air temperature of 0°C and no wind, we were able to land on Brown Bluff.
The landscape was beautiful and unlike any other we had seen in Antarctica to this point.
There was not a lot of snow, with massive gold and brown cliffs behind the beach.
This created an impressive backdrop along with the black volcano rock beach covered by an active volcano, which is currently dormant.
The foreground was speckled with Gentoo penguins, and we were lucky enough to spot a couple of Adelie penguins.
Though Brown Bluff is home to the Adelie penguin, it was so late in the season that most had already gone out to sea.
Adelies are smaller than the Gentoo penguin and they have a short black bill with white eye rings.
We had the option of walking up the moraine slope to get a viewpoint over and along a glacier.
The rocky shoreline down below made for a nice view from above.
Antarctic shags and juvenile Kelp gulls could be seen flying about.
Also, Fur seals playing in the water were easy to spot.
After a 4-hour visit on shore, we had to hurry back to our ship because the tide was rising with berg bits beginning to move into shore.
Our zodiac was the last boat to leave shore, and we did hit a bit of ice.
No one was injured, and we carried on safely to our ship .
Afternoon: Weddell Sea Zodiac Cruise
As our ship journeyed into the Weddell Sea, passing large pack ice, we approached a dead Humpback whale floating at the surface as one hundred or more giant petrels fed on it.
Our guides hoped we would be able to have a closer look at the whale carcass. However, by the time the zodiacs were loaded and on their way, the water current was stronger, causing the ice to move and making it impossible to reach the whale.
Though we couldn’t get closer, our guides knew there would be something more to see.
Our zodiac cruised around the Weddell Sea, which was not at all disappointing.
We spotted Fur seals, Crabeater seals, and spent time observing a Leopard seal that our guide described as “pretty dead” as it lay there frothing at the mouth… with no other signs of movement.
Then — it moved suddenly, showing us it was “pretty alive”, as it stretched its mouth wide to reveal its big, toothy grin.
Our guides had a special surprise lined up for us — landing on an ice floe!
The zodiacs were run up on the edge of the ice, firm enough to hold the boats, and we got to walk around on the ice floe.
It was surreal to notice the floe was slowly drifting under our feet — and a large Fur seal 🦭 lay close to us… scary but exhilarating!
We looked out over glassy calm waters to endless views of ice, with:
Long flat floes of sea ice
Big bulky glacier-calved icebergs
Ice chunks so blue they had to come from deep inside a glacier
As our zodiac made its way back to the ship after a 3-hour cruise, a whale was spotted under our zodiac.
Its black and white body was so clear under the water — a magical moment.
As dinner approached, we were blessed with the most spectacular sunset I have ever seen.
The water was so still and clear, reflecting everything perfectly — tabular icebergs, rock formations, and a sky of blues, purples, pinks and oranges.
Then — Orcas appeared and moved through our view… it felt like a storybook come to life.
As the sun slowly disappeared, the day got even better…
The moon appeared — a yellowish-orange glow rising over the icy landscape.
Its light cast majestically over the glassy water, making this the most unforgettable moon sighting I’ve ever encountered.
The photographs don’t do it justice.
Day 9: March 19, 2019
Morning: Half Moon Island Shore Landing
Today was our last shore landing. The pastel colours filled the air as sunrise approached.
Half Moon Island is a small island surrounded by a large South Shetland Island. There are volcanic rocks and the appearance of craters — it has been millions of years since the last volcanic activity.
As our zodiacs approached, we were greeted by Fur seals 🦭 and Chinstrap penguins. We were able to observe a colony of Chinstrap penguins and see a rich array of different coloured lichen and mosses on the rocks.
The sun was shining on the rocks, providing excellent backdrops for our penguin subjects.
We had the option to partake in a 5-kilometer hike which I gladly accepted since steps are not what I was accumulating on board.
As our zodiac approached the shore, many Fur seals were playing with one another while Chinstrap penguins surrounded them.
During our hike, I saw many Fur seals. We were cautioned to keep our distance.
We visited the Argentinean summer research station Camra, now closed because the scientists had recently packed up for the season.
Our hike continued through loose rocks and some snow.
After a few challenging parts, we were welcomed atop a beautiful lookout with breathtaking views in all directions.
We could see Fur seals on the beach below, a Chinstrap colony on the ridges, the peaks and glaciers of Livingston Island as well as our ship, the Plancius, on the water.
After descending, we were informed that there were three Elephant seals on the beach on the far side of the island.
Before boarding the zodiac, we went to view the 3 female Elephant seals that were nestled up against each other, basking in the sun and warmth on the rock.
As this was our last excursion during this expedition, we had to thoroughly clean our rubber boots before boarding the zodiac.
As we approached our boat, the weather began to take a turn — the temperature dropped accompanied by falling snowflakes.
It is sad to say goodbye, but I will begin to dream about returning to this magnificent white continent again one day.
This concludes my experience during the excursions on my expedition.
As my post was long, I decided to create another post discussing the ship, days at sea, and the food onboard.
Checking off a big bucket list item has made me want to revisit this majestic and magical place another time — but for now, my feet will sadly leave Antarctica, and my rubber boots will remain onboard.
Thank You Antarctica xo
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